There are some amazing doll head sculpts out there, but not all bodies are created equal. What do I mean by that? Well some collectors like the ability to pose a doll in their creative works. I for one love that idea. Since I mostly work in the 1:6th scale range this can cause problems.
Mattel has some amazing head sculpts but not that much in variety of color tones. So when I find a body, such as an action figure, that I like I try to pare it with a Mattel head. Trouble with that is two different companies create different skin tones for their products. Mattel even creates different skin tones for their dolls.
I should say that the guy above was done several years ago. Although he isn't a perfect match to that body I got it as close as I could without loosing the details of the sculpt. The added benefit of this is the variation in tones on the skin. It looks more natural with highlights, and shadows.
However he isn't the doll I will be using for the tutorial. I will be matching a Mattel My Scene AA Barbie to the new Mattel Made to Movie AA body. I did forget to get a picture of her before I started.
So how do you get a head to match the body you want it on? Follow me and I'll show you the method I use.
Mattel has some amazing head sculpts but not that much in variety of color tones. So when I find a body, such as an action figure, that I like I try to pare it with a Mattel head. Trouble with that is two different companies create different skin tones for their products. Mattel even creates different skin tones for their dolls.
I should say that the guy above was done several years ago. Although he isn't a perfect match to that body I got it as close as I could without loosing the details of the sculpt. The added benefit of this is the variation in tones on the skin. It looks more natural with highlights, and shadows.
However he isn't the doll I will be using for the tutorial. I will be matching a Mattel My Scene AA Barbie to the new Mattel Made to Movie AA body. I did forget to get a picture of her before I started.
So how do you get a head to match the body you want it on? Follow me and I'll show you the method I use.
The supplies you will need, aside from the sealed doll, are:
pastels in several colors for custom blending
a sealer to protect the work and allow for better adhesion
q-tips
cotton swabs
something to scrape the pastel into a powder. In this case I have and exacto knife but a credit card works to, only safer.
paint brushes, one angled and small, and another fluffy and large
and a damp paper towel or three.
Now I've seen tutorials using everything from Rit Dye to automotive paint to change skin tones. I've never used these and have no opinion of them. So try the one you feel the most comfortable with.
Prep Work:
At this stage you will want to protect the doll. Two to three layers of sealer will give you a good surface to work on and still keep it from staining the doll. You could go back with Acetone and take the doll back to her original color later thanks to the sealer.
And to protect the body, if she or he is on it, you use masking tape. I placed mine so that the neck opening of the head will come down over it. This not only protects the body but keeps the sealer from gluing the head into place. Never fun to have a doll look the way you want and not be able to move her or him.
Step one: Blending the pastels
Pastels come in all kinds of colors and shades of colors. Most skin tones do too. What you will want to do is scrape together a pile of dust like this below. Now here I have a blend of redish dark brown, black, and yellowish-brown to make the color I need.
pastels in several colors for custom blending
a sealer to protect the work and allow for better adhesion
q-tips
cotton swabs
something to scrape the pastel into a powder. In this case I have and exacto knife but a credit card works to, only safer.
paint brushes, one angled and small, and another fluffy and large
and a damp paper towel or three.
Now I've seen tutorials using everything from Rit Dye to automotive paint to change skin tones. I've never used these and have no opinion of them. So try the one you feel the most comfortable with.
Prep Work:
At this stage you will want to protect the doll. Two to three layers of sealer will give you a good surface to work on and still keep it from staining the doll. You could go back with Acetone and take the doll back to her original color later thanks to the sealer.
And to protect the body, if she or he is on it, you use masking tape. I placed mine so that the neck opening of the head will come down over it. This not only protects the body but keeps the sealer from gluing the head into place. Never fun to have a doll look the way you want and not be able to move her or him.
Step one: Blending the pastels
Pastels come in all kinds of colors and shades of colors. Most skin tones do too. What you will want to do is scrape together a pile of dust like this below. Now here I have a blend of redish dark brown, black, and yellowish-brown to make the color I need.
Step two: Using q-tips
The reason you will be using q-tips or cotton buds to apply the powder to the skin is because they will allow for more pressure. Paint brushes could work but you will ruin them. In order to get the pastel to stick you need to apply enough pressure to push the pastel into the vinyl but not so much that you cause the vinyl to bend in. A brush would only fold or bend with the pressure needed.
The reason you will be using q-tips or cotton buds to apply the powder to the skin is because they will allow for more pressure. Paint brushes could work but you will ruin them. In order to get the pastel to stick you need to apply enough pressure to push the pastel into the vinyl but not so much that you cause the vinyl to bend in. A brush would only fold or bend with the pressure needed.
Step three: Test and Correct
Warning, you will not get the color exactly right the first time. Sorry, it's just par for the course. So find a spot on the doll head where the testing will not show so much. In this case at the back under the hair. Unless she wears a ponytail all the time you won't see it.
Remember that damp paper towel, well it's time to introduce it. If the test color isn't right you can wipe it off and wait for it to dry while you correct the color.
Warning, you will not get the color exactly right the first time. Sorry, it's just par for the course. So find a spot on the doll head where the testing will not show so much. In this case at the back under the hair. Unless she wears a ponytail all the time you won't see it.
Remember that damp paper towel, well it's time to introduce it. If the test color isn't right you can wipe it off and wait for it to dry while you correct the color.
The other reason for that paper towel is to keep your hands clean. The last thing you want is a stray bit of pastel on your fingers to smudge the work your putting in. Clean your fingers and hands often.
Step four: Apply first layer
Now that you have the colors corrected you apply the first layer. Don't try to get it to match perfectly the first time out. Building up the layers will add up to a more even color. Besides the surface will only take on so much of the pastel each time. Apply a thin even coat.
Now that you have the colors corrected you apply the first layer. Don't try to get it to match perfectly the first time out. Building up the layers will add up to a more even color. Besides the surface will only take on so much of the pastel each time. Apply a thin even coat.
Step five: Blend
Once you have an even coat take a cotton ball and blend it in using small circles. This not only evens it out but works it in as well. If you find a stubborn point that for some reason will not blend you can take a damp q-tip and blend a bit that way. Again you will want to use the Cotton ball for the blending.
Once you have an even coat take a cotton ball and blend it in using small circles. This not only evens it out but works it in as well. If you find a stubborn point that for some reason will not blend you can take a damp q-tip and blend a bit that way. Again you will want to use the Cotton ball for the blending.
Step six: Seal the work
Once you have the layer looking as blended as you can get it and it is completely dry, seal it. I use spray sealer as brush sealer will only smear the work. I also find that spray sealer seals the work completely matte and gives a better tooth for the next layer.
Step seven: Repeat and Repeat
At this point the steps do not change. Once the sealer is dry just return to step four and work through to six. It might take three to six layers to get a complete match but once you do it's a wonderful feeling.
Here is my subject all match up.
Once you have the layer looking as blended as you can get it and it is completely dry, seal it. I use spray sealer as brush sealer will only smear the work. I also find that spray sealer seals the work completely matte and gives a better tooth for the next layer.
Step seven: Repeat and Repeat
At this point the steps do not change. Once the sealer is dry just return to step four and work through to six. It might take three to six layers to get a complete match but once you do it's a wonderful feeling.
Here is my subject all match up.
From here you just follow one of the hundreds of tutorials on how to repaint your doll.
I hope this has helped you to achieve the look you want for your girls and guys. Let me know how they turn out for you.
Enjoy!
I hope this has helped you to achieve the look you want for your girls and guys. Let me know how they turn out for you.
Enjoy!